13/03/2013 to 17/04/2013 - Turf Monitoring Unit 24646

The basic building block of a healthy lawn is a healthy soil.  Aside from air and sunlight, almost everything else  a plant needs enters it by way of the roots. The basic idea behind aerating is perfect simple. Holes and slits are created so that air and water can penetrate beneath the surface. 

Everyone wants a lawn to be proud of, and we all see spendid examples on our travels. The area of rich green turf may be as small as a living carpet or a large as the vast rolling acres surrounding a stately home, but in each case our question is always the same - "Why cant my lawn look like that?"

The types of grasses present in the lawn are one of the factors controlling its appearance, but the basic cause of disappointment is the lack of proper  maintenance. The turf is mown fairly regularly and the edges are keep neatly trimmed. When the grasses looks pale we buy a fertilisers, and when it turns brown after weeks without rain we rush out and water.  Usually moss and weed appear, and when patches becomes large enough to disfigure the surface.

Bare patches, broken edges, bumps and hollows are all the serious problems when they occur in a prominent area of the lawn. Together, they make up the main cause of the patchy effect which spoils so many lawns, and they can make moving more difficult than usual.

Much of this work involves using replacement of turf in small area. The turfing area is the L Block right hand site of the building. The grasses making up the turf should be similar to those present in the lawn.

• First, cut out square of turf carrying the broken edge. Prise it up gently with a spade to free it from the soil. Move the turf forward so that the damaged part projects beyond the border. Area of bump or hollow. Cut turf with a spade or edging iron. Peel back the turves carefully. Remove all the dead patch of turf and affected areas.

• Order the turf such as find a reputable supplier and buy the best quality and cheapest of grade is bound to produce a poor quality lawn so we purchase the "readylawn" supplier. We bought grass "Kye Fescue Browntop".  Always order five per cent more than calculated area to allow for wastage. There may be a choice in turf sizes, but that small turves are easier to lay than larger ones.

• If the clods left after digging are not properly broken down, then settlement is bound to occur later and your lawn will be uneven. The problem of bumps and hollow is established turf is difficult to cure, but it is easy to prevent. As you proceed break up hard clods and remove debris, weeds and large stones at this stage.

• Get the plot (3 1/2 ft X  6ft) in right hand side of L Block ready by mark out the area to be turfed, using a garden line for the straight edges. Curves are move difficult to mark - scratch out a shallow drill with a stick and fill this boundary line with sand. 
• Standard turves (1ft X 3ft) will be rolled up when delivered to you. Laying should take place as soon as possible after delivery - turf can deteriorate quite quickly.
• The most suitable time to turf is in March or April, but this will mean regular watering when the weather is dry - failure to do so will mean shrinkage of the turves and death of the roots. Choosing the right day is also important. Laying turf in the rain is a filthy job, so our day was cloudy and the soil is reasonable dry.
• Lay the first row of turves by starting with a single row along the side of the site closest to moving edge. Tamp down each row of turves with stand on a plank. Gently press them down don't beat them down. Check the level with a board after tamping down. If there are bumps and hollows never beat the turf down with the back of a spade. You should lift the turf and add or remove soil as necessary. 
• Inspect each piece of turf before placing it in position - pull out any weeds. The final piece to be laid at the end of a row should be a half size or full size of turf. Fill in the gap behind with a piece cut to fit. Never use a small piece of turf at the edge. Trim edges with sharp edging knife, leaving room to allow for retrimming once the turf is well established.   
• Finish laying the turves by standing on a plank and never on the newly-laid turf nor on the unturfed plot. If you plant to bring turves across the turfed area in a barrow, do not overload it and lay down planks to avoid rutting. 

Although the young grass may look healthy and vigorous, the new lawn should be tended carefully and not subjected to any heavy loading after sowing. Water carefully when necessary and most probably daily when is still new and keep a careful watch of disease right form the beginning. Water again after finishing so the water penetrates to 100 - 150 mm (4 - 6 in) and then keep moist until the turf has well rooted in usually two to three weeks in good growing conditions. Ensure sufficient water is given to penetrate through the turf mat and at least 100mm into the soil. Lift the corner to check. Weeds and bare patches can be an additional problem for diagnosis of and cure for new lawn troubles.

Always clear the site of sticks, stones and builders debris. Note the height of the grass when it is laid and mow when it grows to half its height again back to the original height. In other words - mow only the top third and reduce height gradually if required.