31/7/2013 - Soil Unit 22175 and Plant Identification Unit 20574

Actual Temperature
12 degrees Celsius
Humidity : 92%
Rainfall : 0.2mm
Wind : Calm

My class was Lisa Short on Soil Water, Essential Plant Nutrients, The Role of Nutrients, Nutrient Deficiencies, Plant Nutrition and Cation Exchange. 

Managing soil water requires an understanding of how water behaves in soil, how to identify and removes excess water and how to calculate the amount of irrigation water required. Some of the water retained in the soil pores is available to plants. It is absorbed through the roots and moves up through the plant stems. Most is lost back into the atmosphere by a process called transpiration, which is the loss of water from the leaves and stems of living plants to the atmosphere. Water also evaporates from the surface of moist soils. 

Factors that influence the plant's ability to absorb nutrients from the soil (as opposed to influencing the amount of available nutrients in the soil) include :

• soil water content : plant cannot absorb nutrients from dry soils
• physical conditions, compaction, excess water and poor aeration limit root growth or condition
• temperature plants do not absorb nutrients is very cold conditions.
• pest and diseases which also limit root growth and functions
• toxins (eg aluminium) the limit root growth
• nutrient imbalances  for examples too much potassium will limit the absorption of magnesium.

The role of Macronutrients in Plant Growth :-

Nitrogen - highest concentration in actively growing plant; young leaves, fruits, flowers and fruit tips.

Phosphorous - making of protein and new cells. Particularly important in ripening of fruits and seed germination. 

Potassium - water movements between cells, to aid essential chemical reactions. Essential for stem to lengthen, promotes thickening of cells walls, protect plants from disease.

Calcium - needed for cell division as a components of cells walls. Essential in the functioning of growing point and several aspect of root growing.

Magnesium - Chlorophyll molecule has a magnesium atom. No mg no green plants.

Sulphur - all protein contains sulphur. Sulphur is a constituent of amino acids that are part of genetic coding materials and proteins of living things.

The role of Mirconutrients in Plant Growth Iron - essential to make chlophyll and use nitrates,  Manganese -  photosynthesis and making proteins,  Copper - reactions taking parts in plants, Zinc - lengthening of roots, stems and leaves,  Boron - new cells for growing points - root tips, Molybdenum - essential for plants to use nitrates to make proteins and Chlorine - a very small amounts are needed.

Cation Exchange held by negative charge on the colloid (aggregated particles) can exchange with cations presented in the soil solution. Lisa Short also demonstrate about the Ions are electrically charged and are either positive or negative. Positive charged ions are called cations and Negative charged ions are called anions.

In the afternoon we have Plant Identification Unit also with Lisa Short under the topic of Conifer (Pinophytes) are gymnosperms. They are cone-bearing seeds plants with vascular tissue all living conifers include cedar. The conifers are now accepted as comprising six to eight families, with a total of 65 - 70 genera and 600 - 630 species. A cone is an organ that contains the reproductive structure in the plant division Pinophyta which are more commonly known as the conifers. The familiar woody cone is the female cone which produce pollen and male cone (pollen cone) is structurally similar across the conifers differing only in small ways from species to species.

Fern (Pteridophyta) is any one of a group of about 12,000 species of plants. They also have stems, leaves and roots like other vascular plants. Ferns first appears in the fossil record 360 million years ago. Ferns in general may be thought of as largely being specialists in marginal habitats, often succeeding in places when various environmental factors limit the success of flowering plants.

Lisa took the class to the backyard of O Block to show some conifers and fern. Class adjourned at 3.00pm.

30/07/2013 - Plant Propagation Unit 20557 and Soil Unit 22175

Actual Temperature
8.1 degrees Celsius
Humidity : 78%
Rainfall : 0.00mm
Wind : Calm

My class was conducted by Lisa Short on 30/07/2013. In the morning section monitored on the seedlings such as Digitalis summer king which is healthy and root growing gently, Sophora tetraptera seedlings are quite slow but there are more growth. Others seedlings are just growing slowly.  Thymus vulgaris has healthy roots and doing good. Veronica "Emerald Green" has good root growth and plant is healthy. Juniper media blaauw the plant is healthy but growth is slow. Dianthus confetti seedlings showing good growth and  more healthier. Sweet pea - cupid drawrf (Lathyrus cupid) seedlings as good growth and looks healthy. 

As I saw the Lupin gallery mix  seeds are developing in a fully developed stage with many seedling leaves. Pricked out and potting on was done on this seedlings with 28 small pots.

Clianthus puniceus seedlings are doing good and they are healthy. Pricked out and potted on seedlings under 12 small pots. 

Veronica topiaria hard wood cutting was transferred to five new small pots mainly because some have no roots developing. 

In afternoon class was Soil Unit 22175 with Lisa Burton. Soil Texture the relative proportion of sand, silt and clay give soil its texture. Soil texture gives a good indication of other soil properties such as water storage, drainage and nutrient supply. Soil texture can be estimated in the field by hand texturing and determined in the laboratory by mechanical analysis.

Sandy soils are usually have many large pore spores, contains little organic matter, drain quickly and hold little water for plants, may even repel water if dry, are easy to cultivate, warm up quickly due to lack of water in soil, don't hold nutrients well and have good aeration.

Clay soils usually have small pore spaces between the clay particles, hold water, drain very slowly and so are easily water logged, can be difficult to cultivate i.e. sticky when wet and hard and cloddy when dry, hold a moderate amount of organic matter and nutrients, can compact when wet and crack when dry, warm up slowly due to the amount of water in the soil.

Loams are usually ideal for growing plants, are easy to cultivate, provide good conditions for root growth, drain easily yet hold water and nutrients for plants, have a wide range or compositions, are well aerated and are fertile and easily managed.

Lisa also emphasis on soil structure and show the types of soils behind Block L. Soil structure refers to the way in which the mineral particles are grouped together or aggregated. Soils with the same texture can have very different structures.

What holds aggregate together? Mirco-organism are the main agents for binding soil particles together. These organisms break down organic matter in soil and in the process, produce organic compounds that cement soil particles together.

Factor holds aggregate together : 

• organic matter
• clay
• fungal threads
• bacteria "gum"
• worms - producing casts and gums
• calcium
• other compounds such as iron
• plant root (as they expand they force soil particles together)

Class adjourned at 3.00pm. 

  

29/07/2013 - Research On Nutrient Deficiencies in Plants

Actual Temperature
13 degrees Celsius
Humidity : 78%
Rainfall : 0.00mm
Wind : Calm

In the early stages of deficiency, or in mild deficiencies, the only sign of the deficiency is somewhat retarded growth. This is difficult to pick up without a nearby well-fed plant for comparison. Analysis of leaves from the plant can sometimes pin-point the deficiency, but this course of action is not often open to home gardeners.

More severe deficiencies announce their presence by the plant's leaves developing off-colours or distortions that are characteristic for each deficiency and that vary somewhat from species to species. Multiple deficiencies greatly complicate the symptoms. 

The following information should help you in determining the cause of poor growth and off colours if these are due to nutrient deficiency.

Nutrient Deficiencies in Plants Symptoms appears first in the OLDEST leaves :

• Nitrogen - general yellowing, often with reddening, stunning, leaf drop, premature maturity.
• Magnesium - patchy yellowing between veins, strong reddening, especially around edge of yellow zones
• Potassium - scorched margins, spots surrounded by pale zones, younger leaves may show red pigmentation.
• Phosphorus - poor growth, erect habit, lack lustre look, blue-green, purple colours.
• Molybdenum - mottling over whole leaf, cupping of leaves and distortion of stems.
• Cobalt - legumes only, as for nitrogen

Symptoms may appear first in either the OLDEST or YOUNGEST leaves, but often first in the MIDDLE leaves.

• Manganese - inter venal yellowing; veins pale green, diffuse, water-soaked spots, worst in dull weather.

Symptoms appear first in the YOUNGEST leaves

• Calcium - tip hooking, blackening and death
• Sulphur - yellowing, usually of whole plant, leaves small with rolled down edges, some pigmentation
• Iron - yellowing between the veins, which remain sharply green, youngest leaves almost white if severe
• Copper - death of tips, yellowing of leaves, distorted young growth, severe decrease in flowering
• Zinc - small leaves, bunching of young leaves, yellow-white mottling
• Boron - margins chlorotic (yellow), crumpling, blackening, distortion, death of growing tips

26/07/2013 Research on Source of Goodness

Actual Temperature
12 degrees Celsius
Humidity : 80%
Rainfall : 0.00mm
Wind : Calm

Vegetables are vital source of nourishment and nutrient values are higher in fresh produce. If you decide to go organic, chemical contamination is also keep to a minimum. Eating fresh fruit and vegetables every day is essential for good health - five serves a day is the minimum requirement for wellbeing. Serving should be from each of five colour groups - red, yellow / orange, white / brown, green and blue / purple.

Fruits and vegetables contains vitamins, minerals and phytochemicals that are essential for good health. (A phytochemical is a plant chemical that contain protective, disease-preventing compounds). An adequate intake of fruit and vegetables reduces the risk of the most common health conditions, including cardio-vascular disease, some cancers, diabetes and hypertension.

Vegetables are important sources of many important vitamins and minerals such as :

Vitamin A (or beta-carotene) : available from red, orange or yellow vegetables like carrots and tomatoes, leafy green vegetables and fruits like apricots and peaches.

Vitamin B (except B12) : leafy green vegetables.

Vitamin C :  available from fresh fruit, potatoes, salad vegetables and other leafy green vegetables such as cabbage, silver beet, etc.

Vitamin K : found in leafy green vegetables such as spinach and lettuce; members of the brassica family such as kale, cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli and Brussels sprouts. Two tablespoons of parsley contains more than the recommended daily amount of Vitamin K.

Folic acid an d folate : forms of vitamin B9. Leaf vegetables such as spinach and silver beet  are rich sources of folate. Folate is necessary for the production and maintenance of new cells. This is especially    important during periods of rapid cell division and growth such as infancy.

Potassium : an essential mineral marconutrient in human nutrition which is important in maintaining fluid and electrolyte balance in the body. Foods with high source of potassium include artichoke, butter beans, orange juice, potatoes, bananas, avocados, apricots, parsnip and turnips. Research has indicated that the diets high in potassium can reduce the risk of hypertension.

 Lycopene : an unsaturated carotenoid that gives a red colour to tomatoes, guava, roseship, watermelon and pink grapefruits. It is a proven antioxidant which helps to neutralise free radicals which may damage the body cells.

Calcium : leafy green vegetables are particularly rich in calcium. Spinach, kale, broccoli, as well as some legumes and soybeans products, are all good sources.

Iron : Fresh bok choy, aubergine, spinach and most legumes contain iron.

25/07/2013 - Rose Pruning Unit 21032

Actual Temperature
9 degrees Celsius
Humidity : 92%
Rainfall : 0.4mm
Wind : Calm

I have a class with Lisa Burton and Curator Linda Hellyer in Botanic Garden under rose garden. Usually rose pruning is from July to August of the year. What is pruning? Pruning as trimming or by cutting away the superfluous branches. 

What are some of the reasons for pruning?

• to help direct plant growth 
• to help promote better production of flower and fruit
• to eliminate diseased or pest-infested growth
• to removal of dead, split or damaged branches or tree trunks
• to extend the life of plants 
•  to thin and remove unwanted branches in densely foliaged shrubs and trees
• to rejuvenate old plants
• to clip hedging plants
• to remove spent flowers and fruits

Roses growers undoubtedly want to maintain healthy, vigorous bushes which produce an excellent display of flowers. For the objective to become a reality many roses need regular pruning.  Rose pruning is not difficult and is undertaken for the same reasons that apply to the pruning of the other plants : plant vigour, health and shape. If these aspects receive adequate consideration and action, good flowering will follow. 

Rose pruning practice varies with each grower. For many years it was thought that roses should be heavily pruned. Roses with plenty of leaves tend to produce better blooms. 

Important pruning hints for all roses :-

• Rose plants are prone to attack from various diseases and pests
• Prune after frosts have passed. 
• Always cut into healthy wood and on an angle.
• Begin pruning by removing all dead, diseased or sun-scalded material
• Often two or more buds are produced at pruning cuts.
• Cutting flowers for indoor decoration is an excellent method of pruning.
• When pruning, always promote the natural growth habit of each variety
• When pruning standard roses, the general objective is to create a bowl effect with little centre growth,
• Watershoots above the graft should be retained with only light pruning as they will become the main branches later when old wood is removed

Ms. Linda and Lisa taught how to prune the roses. I pruned modern roses, climbers and she guided me how to pruned such as the position to stand especially facing the bud before cutting the stems, extract excess canes, and decision making on how to prune and organise the plant. 

The most commonly grown rose categories are dealt with below, according to their specific needs. Hybrid tea roses, polyantha roses, miniature roses and climbing roses.

Hybrid Tea Roses - commonly grown and can be distinguished from other roses by their long-stemmed flowers which have long, pointed buds. They have the scent of tea. They are standard and also bushes. In general terms, removing about one-third to one-half of the growth. Remove all small, weak and inward-growing branches. If the plant is growing larger than desired, remove some old growth taking care to maintain the balance of growth. Shorten back all other growth to outward facing buds.

Polyantha Roses - available as bushes, standard or climbers. Polyanthas are bush roses. Both produce their blooms in terminal clusters. Generally removing one-quarterto one-third of the growth is adequate. Light thinning, remove small,  weak, criss-crossed and diseased stems. Thinning of old wood may be required. 

Miniature Roses - these dwarf roses are becoming more popular. Commonly propagated from cuttings and grown on their own roots rather than being grafted. Pruning treatment similar to that described for hybrid tea and polyanthas, There is no need to find buds. They are small and plenty anyway and main task is to remove dead and diseased wood. First or second year severe pruning and following can prune above the grafted, above prune ground level.

Climbing Roses - produce lateral shoots. the pruning procedure is shorten these growths back to 2 -3 buds. Young plants left unpruned for a couple of years, until they develop some strong stems which become the framework. During the first or second year, light summer pruning, such as shortening of the laterals. Remove any diseased, weak or dead growth within these years. Following year, lateral growth should be shortened after flowering and wood over four years old should be removed. Remove very old near the base of the plant to help stimulate new growth. Plants in the group require little pruning, except for removing older wood in order to promote the renewal of branches. 

We ended the pruning training at 4.00pm.  

23/07/2013 on Plant Propagation Unit 20557 & Soil Unit 22175

Actual Temperature
15 degrees Celsius
Humidity : 80%
Rainfall : 0.00mm
Wind : Calm

My class was conducted by Lisa Short on 23/07/2013. In the morning section monitored on the seedlings such as "Lupin gallery mix" which is healthy and root growing gently, Sophora tetraptera seedlings are quite slow but there are more growth. Others seedlings are just growing slowly. Clianthus puniceus are doing good and they are healthy. Thymus vulgaris has healthy roots and doing good. Veronica "Emerald Green" has good root growth and plant is healthy. Juniper media blaauw the plant is healthy but growth is slow. Dianthus confetti seedlings showing good growth and healthy. Sweet pea - cupid drawrf (Lathyrus cupid) seedlings as good growth and looks healthy. 

As I saw the Digitalis summer king seeds are developing in a fully developed stage with many seedling leaves. Pricked out and potting on was done on this seedlings with 20 small pots.

The Soil Unit 22175 was with Lisa Short in the afternoon. She explained on Assessment on Soil and the first topic on Soil. What is soil? Soil components and plant growth are Mineral particles which small particles of rock broken down from the parent rock e.g. sand, silt and clay. Air in atmosphere found between the particles and oxygen which is essential for respiration of roots and soil life. Water from rainfall and irrigation and nutrient in dissolved form and life processes. Organic matter helps bind soil particles together and food for micro-organism to break down into nutrients.

Soil Formation are formed from the rock that makes up the Earth's crust. Weathering caused alterations in the nature of rocks and minerals to form soil and consists of two simultaneous interdependent processes. 

Physical weathering involves the disintegration of mineral matter into smaller and smaller fragments as a result of physical force. Examples are water freezing in a fissure, crystallisation of certain salt from saline solution, rain and wind blasting. 

Chemical Weathering requires both water and oxygen. Rain percolates through the rocks dissolving tiny amounts of rock minerals. Chemical weathering is more active in warm moist oxygen rich environments and is therefore more rapid in the upper surfaces of the developing soil.

Class adjourned at 3.00pm. 

22/07/2013 - Research for the Month of December

Actual Temperature
15 degrees Celsius
Humidity : 85%
Rainfall : 0.2mm
Wind : Slow Wind


Many flowers have developed specific colours and shapes to attract insects. Many are also spotted sticky, sweet and delicious scented, primarily to appeal to insect pollinators. Unfortunately, most vegetables plants have rather inconspicuous flowers they don't attract valuable pollinating bees. Yields can be substantially increased by placing a hive in the vegetable garden or simply by planting bee-attracting flowers such as borage, thyme, catnip, sweet basil or mint nearby. Hand-pollinating aubergine, cucumber and melon flowers with a soft watercolour brush may seem ridiculous but it can substantially increase your crop. Even tomato and sweet corn can be encouraged to produce more by shaking the flowers to ensure an even distribution of pollen.

Getting Ready 

Plant seedlings of beetroot, bok choy, sprouting, broccoli, Brussel sprouts, cabbage, capsicum, florence fennel, lettuce, marrow, Cape gooseberry, melons and tomatoes.

Seeds of many vegetable crops can be sown, but it is important to water them regularly. Keep weeds down in the garden by frequently using a push hoe and mulch with compost and sawdust to help converse moisture. 

Frost-prone and Frost-free Areas

This is the season when many vegetables can be planted out if they are to grow to full maturity. Regular hoeing is very useful in the vegetable garden. It not only keep weeds down but also helps to converse moisture. Stake peas and runner beans as soon as they look like climbing. Plant out cabbages and cauliflowers when the weather is moist. Plant tomatoes in sheltered, but sunny, corners of the garden. Give plenty of water at planting time to get plants off to a good start. 

Sow french beans, beetroot, celery, leeks, lettuce, New Zealand spinach, sprouting broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, melons, marrow, radish, silver beet, spinach, swede, sweet corn, turnip and zucchini. In cooler areas, it is still possible to get in an extra crop of peas and parsnip. Sow parsley, sage, basil and coriander. Use liquid fertiliser to boost the growth of pumpkins, cucumber, marrow, cauliflower and silver beet. Maturing crops of potatoes and onions should have water gradually withheld to ensure a firm and rot-free crop.

Liquid Fertiliser 

A well-known liquid fertiliser involves using six herbs : stinging nettle, chamomile, dandelion, the bark of the oak tree, yarrow (Achillea) and valerian (Valeriana officials). These herbs helps to activate the organisms that live in the soil. They also help to speed the fermentation of compost and manure, making them more readily available to use. 

The six herbs can be added to water and allowed to root down before the liquid is applied to the garden. Placed in water and brought to the boil, then allowed to cool, they can be used directly as a herb tea and watered onto the garden or onto the compost heap as it is being made.

 A combination of all these herbs is best but using just one and applying the liquid to the soil will also have beneficial results. Valerian tea is said to attract earthworms. Nettle and dandelion liquid fertiliser is a quick substitute for the combined six herbs and will also stimulate healthy vigorous growth.

20/07/2013 - Research on Seed Introduction

Seed  Introduction

Advantages of using seed:-

• cheap and efficient for large quantities
• simpler and cheaper facilities needed
• seedlings often grow faster than cuttings
• plants produced by seed are genetically variable (important for revegetation work)

Disadvantages of using seeds:-

• Genetic variation where consisitency is required
• some seeds can take years to flower
• plant grown from seed may take longer to reach flowering age

Variability - Propagation by seed is called sexual propagation. The genes from two parents have combined to create an offspring (some plants are self fertile and can pollinate their self). The creates variability from one plant to the next, especially to wild populations.

Viability - Seeds may remain for commercial production usually state their percentage. This allows the grower to accurately calculate how much seed is needed to produce the required crop numbers. The percentages can also be an indicator of teh quality of teh seed, although some plants consistently produce large numbers of none viable seed.

Seed Provenance - the place that a particular plant originated from produces a range of genetic characteristics that are very specific to that batch of seed. This is called seed provenance. It can be very important for revegetation plantings and seeds should ideally be collected within 50km radius of the planting site.

Seed Structure

Most seeds contain a built in food supply. Structurally the seed is a matured ovule. Various parts of ovary may be incorporated in the seed coat.

There are 3 basic parts of seed:

• testa-seed coat from various parts of the ovary
• embryo-differentiaties into plumule and radicle
• Endosperm-stored food source

By the time the seed is mature, the embryo is differentiated into a shoot (plumule) and  a root (radicle) and one or two specialised seed leaves (cotyledons).

The area between the young root and the cotyledons is known as the hypocotyl.

Stored food is present in seeds as carbohydrates, fats and proteins. This stored food may come from tissue called endosperm which is formed as a result of the fertilisation process.

Two types of germinating seeds:-

1] Epigeous germination - the cotyledons come above the ground. Eg : bean
2] Hypogeous germination - the cotyledons stay below the ground.  Eg : onion

Dormancy

Some seeds may fail to germinate  even after care has been taken to provide the correct germination environment. This can be due to seed dormancy. Seed dormancy can have several different causes, the most common of which are:-

• Physical Dormancy - the seed coat is too hard.
• Mechanical Dormancy - the seeds are inside a hard outer covering
• Physiological Dormancy - Several causes including incompletely developed embryos

Breaking Dormancy

There are several methods that can be used to break seed dormancy depending on its cause. These include :

Dry storage -        Simple store the seeds dry for the specified period of time.

Light sensitivity - Ensure that the correct light conditions are provided.

Hot water -           Soak the seeds in hot water for 12 -24 hours, then mix with moist media and leave 

                              for 24 hours to encourage water uptake. Sow immediately.

Scarifying -          Breaking the seed coat or reducing its thickness.This can be achieved by either 

                              abrading (sanding) the seed coat, or chipping to remove a small section.

Stratification -     Warm moist which soak the seeds in water for 24 hours,  then mix with moist 

                              media and store in a warm environment for between 1 - 2 weeks.
                              Keep moist. Sow immediately. 

                              Cool moist which soak the seeds in water for 24 hours, then mix with media
                              in a bag and leave to sit for 3-4 days to allow maximum water uptake.
                              Place the bag in a fridge and leave for between 4 - 12 weeks.
                              Sow immediately on removal.

Seed Germination 

 

For seeds to germinate the following environmental factors have to be provided.

• Water - seeds need to take up water to start germination process. Once germination starts the seed must not to dry out again or the embryo may die. Constant moisture during germination is vital to success.
• Air - in order to carry out high rate of respiration which accompanies germination, the seed must have access to lots of oxygen. Therefore, media must be well aerated.
• Temperature - the ideal temperature for germination of a wide range of plants is 15 - 25 degrees.
• Light - most of the seeds germinate in light or low light conditions. A few species will not germinate in the dark, while some will not germinate in light. 

Disease Control during Germination 

Damping off can occur as can occur as the seed germinates even before it emerges through the soil, marking it seem that the seed has not germinated. Damping off can also attack older seedlings that seem to have been healthy. A stem rot develops at the base of the stem and the seedlings fall over and wilt. Often occurs in patches in a tray and infection can spread rapidly.

Disease Control and Prevention :-

Good hygiene. Use only clean pots and trays and a good quality, well drained seed sowing mix.
Over watering is often a cause of damping off, but lack of water can also weaken seedlings, so that they are susceptible to infection.
Use fungicides to control infection. Regularly check health of seedlings. Dust seed with fungicide before sowing. After seeds have germinated, drenching occasionally  with a fungicide will help avoid the risk of damping off.

Temperature 12 degrees Celsius.
Rainfall : 0.00%
Humidity : 85%
Light wind.

19/07/2013 - Research for the month of November

Actual Temperature
11degrees Celsius
Humidity : 75%
Rainfall : 0.4mm
Wind : Lighty Wind

Moisture and Mulching 

November is a generally warm month throughout the entire country. The chance of frost even in the coldest parts of the country has almost passed and a wide range of vegetables can be planted and sown. Add plenty of compost, well-rooted sawdust, spent coffee grounds, seaweed and even a light dressing of lawn clippings, to the soil surface to help converse moisture as the weather becomes dry. Make sure that the soil is well watered before applying a mulch or much of the benefit will be lost. 

Getting Ready

A general garden fertiliser  applied at rate of two good handfuls per square metre, well worked into the soil, will encourage crops to develop quickly. Lettuces and other salad vegetables grow rapidly and are more succulent if they are fed regularly with liquid fertiliser. Home made liquid fertiliser is easily made by dissolving cow, chicken, or horse manure in water which can be poured round the root zone from a water can. The liquid should be diluted to the colour of weak tea before applying. Take care to avoid splashes on the foliage for hygiene reasons. If in doubt, use a commercial liquid fertiliser.

Herb teas are another method of improving the health and vigour of the garden. Nettle, dandelion, sage, chamomile, hypericum, yarrow and valerian, teas can be used to great advantage. Teas are a good way to transfer beneficial essences from one plant to another. Dandelion exudes a substance that inhibits the growth of neighbouring plant yet, when made into a herb tea or used in the compost, has a beneficial influence on plant growth. Cover the herb with water and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and cool for at least 20 minutes. You can use the tea directly on your plants or dilute it with 3 parts of water. Use immediately after preparation.

Frost-prone Areas 

Choose to sow only as much as you think you might need from the garden. Planting hundreds of beetroot and pumpkins will see much of the crop go to waste unless you have a ready market. A sprinkling of seed sown every four or five weeks is usually enough to ensure a succession of plants. Cucumber, eggplant, melons, capsicum, chilli and pumpkins are susceptible to small changes in temperature and should only be planted outdoors where warm conditions are certain.

Frost-free Areas

Almost any seed sown now will germinate as long as it kept moist. Seedlings are susceptible to the slightest change in moisture levels. Water young seedlings when you transplant them. This gets them off to a good start and it also helps to firm the soil around the small, fine roots. Ensure that the vegetable  garden remains free of weeds as the temperatures warm and the garden rushes into life.

18/07/2013 - Research for the Month of October

Actual Temperature
15 degrees Celsius
Humidity : 80%
Rainfall : 8.8 mm
Wind : Calm Wind


A wide range of seed of highly decorative and delicious lettuce is now available on the market. Sow seed thinly (12 or more seeds at a time) at regular two weeks intervals for a regular supply. By carefully choosing types, it is possible to pick your own almost year round.

Herbs such a basil should be sown in rich, moist soil without delay. Both the wild rocket and the better-known cultivated rocket are among my favourite salad greens. Successive sowings about 6 weeks apart will ensure that there is always a continuous supply of leaves for the table or cooking. Tomato seedlings set out on Labour Weekend in the north, or later in the south, will be ready for picking by late December or early January.

Getting Ready

For most gardeners, this is a settled month with only the faintest chance of frost. Seed sowing and planting out can begin in earnest. Soil that has been prepared over the past few months will be in tip-top condition, ready to get plants off to the best possible start. Keep potatoes earthed up and watch for snail and slug attacks. Aphid infestations can be treated with a dousing of a soapy water or washed off with a blast from the host; otherwise use a suitable insecticide.

Frost-prone Areas

Seeds or seedlings of many tender plants, such as dwarf and climbing beans, pumpkin, marrow, zucchini and tomatoes, should only be planted out if the weather is warm and settled. October often has a sting in its tail, especially in parts of the south. Nevertheless, it is now possible to sow a wide range of vegetables including celery, lettuce, radish, mustard peas. French beans (in sheltered spots) parsnips, carrots and turnips in well-dug, well-drained warm soil. Seedlings of all of the above can be planted out in sheltered positions.

Frost-free Areas  

Most summer vegetables can be either sown or planted out now that the weather has settled. Main-crop potatoes, climbing  or dwarf beans, aubergine, cabbage, capsicum, carrot, cauliflower cucumber, summer varieties of florence fennel, leeks lettuce, marrow, peas, pumpkin, silver beet, swede, sweet corn, and tomato are just some of the many vegetables that will flourish as the days lengthen and warm.

17/07/2013 - Research for the Month of September

Actual Temperature
18 degrees Celsius
Humidity : 77%
Rainfall : 0.00mm
Wind : Lighty Wind


Temperature begin to rise throughout the country, although the occasional hard frost with strike, especially in southern and central areas. Spring is nevertheless here at last and the vegetable garden is beginning to show it. Despite the good news, frost can blight any tender seedlings and these are best held back from planting out until the days are more settled.

Getting Ready

Spring is ideal for sowing, and no time should be lost in raising seeds in trays for planting out later. Many herbs sown now will grow quickly from seed. It is better to sow thinly and get 20 or so seedlings rather than have so many that they choke themselves and pricking them out becomes a major task. When planting out seedlings, it is important to ensure the soil is not only warm and well drained but that   it is also fertile and friable. Watering in new seedlings before firming the soil around them with a dilute-solution liquid fertiliser will be give them the best possible start. It will help to boost them while they get established in still-cool soils. As soon as the soil begins to warm and dry out, small and increasing amount of fertiliser can be added to the root zone of many plants.

Herbs seeds and cutting planted now will be useful once summer arrives "Trieste Sugar" is a sweeter type of chicory that hearts up well and although the outside leaves will shrivel and wilt in hard frosts, inner heart will remain quite useable. At the end of the summer, the large outer leaves eventually die off, allowing the plant to develop a second leaf crop.

Frost-prone Areas

In Frost-prone areas, it is still best to sow in pots or seed trays and plant only when the weather is warmer. Aubergine, capsicum, cucumber, tomato, pumpkin and melons are best sown in the protection of the greenhouse and planted out only when the days are warm and the weather settled. All seedlings that are being grown on for planting out later will benefit from a spray with a liquid fertiliser every fortnight or so. This will help the plants to flourish. Copper or a general fungicide added to the mix can also help protect young seedlings from fungal attack.

Frost-free Areas

In frost-free condition, there is not much that cant either be sown, or planted although aubergine, capsicum, cucumber, tomato, pumpkin and melons are most likely to succeed if sown in trays in a sheltered area and planting out is left until after Labour Weekend in late October. Kumara can be started in warm sheltered gardens and spinach can be sown directly where you want it to grow. Seeds of globe beetroot, bok choy, broad beans, broccoli, kohlrabi, cabbage, cauliflower, capsicum, celery, lettuce, leek, marrow, onion, orach, parsley, peas, radish, spinach, silver beet, swede, tomato, and zucchini, can be sown, directly where they are to grow. All of the above, can be planted out.

16/07/2013 - Research for the Month of August

Actual Temperature
9 degrees Celsius
Humidity : 82%
Rainfall : 0.00mm
Wind : Heavy Wind


August weather can be some of the most unpredictable of the year. With hints of spring one day, icy squalls the next and in some parts of the country, rain, rain and more rain. Despite such conditions, this is the best time to prepare the garden for spring planting by digging in generous amounts of compost and planting out. 

In some parts of the country, snow can fall as late September and hard frosts are often felt well into this month, so it pays to take special notice of local conditions before rushing out into the garden full of the joys of - well, almost - spring.

Getting Ready

Any green-manure crops that were planted in the autumn should be dug in as soon as possible to add valuable humus to the soil. They will take at least 5 - 6 weeks to decompose, especially if the weather is wet and cold. Mustard, blue lupin and oat are all valuable for improving soils. 

All crops that are maturing such as cabbage, brussels sprouts, cauliflower, mustard and kale will benefit from light cultivation. Hoe around all growing crops - loose soil warms more quickly than soil that is packed.

Frost-prone Areas 

Some varieties of peas can be sown now for harvesting in late November or December. These dwarf varieties are quick to mature, although they only bear moderate crops. Maincrop varieties such as "Greenfeast", "W.F. Massey", "Alderman Tall Climbing", "Novella" and "Stratagem" are all great producers.

Seeds that can be sown in trays ready for transplanting later include cabbage, celery, spring onions, onions, silver beet, spinach and lettuce. Broad bean and endive seeds can be sown if your soil is light, warm and well drained. In sheltered areas, it is also possible to sow or plant out seedlings of broccoli, cabbage, carrot, lettuce, pea, spinach, swede, and turnips. Turnips are a favourite salad vegetable as they can be eaten at almost any stage of maturity and are very easy to grow.

In very cold areas, it is still best to sow seed in trays and cover them with a sheet of glass, or place them in the shelter of a greenhouse.

Frost-free Areas 

Onions, peas, radish, lettuce, beetroot, silverbeet, spinach, cabbage, carrot, leek and cauliflower will grow with great vigour if the conditions are right. Rhubarb roots and asparagus crowns will also start to burst into growth. Side dressing with a general-purpose fertiliser will greatly benefit these crops.

Seeds of aubergine, tomato, capsicum, cucumber, marrow and beans can be sown in pots or trays and placed in a sunny position under glass or on an windowsill.

Well sprouted main-crop potatoes can also be planted out. Lay seed potatoes can also be planted out. Lay seed potatoes in a tray in a sunny place for 7 - 10 days until the "eyes" sprout, then plant in the garden.

15/07/2013 - Research for the Month of July

Actual Temperature
9 degrees Celsius
Humidity : 85%
Rainfall : 0.00mm
Wind : Lighty Wind

Over the past few years I have grown wonderful winter vegetables and herbs grown wonderful winter vegetables and herbs such as sage, coriander and rosemary in the containers. Lettuce and mizuna flourished even though the coldest months, although it pays to choose a winter-hardy type of lettuce. Ideally, low compact-growing vegetables do best as container plants. Vegetables suited for container growing including many of the miniature pumpkins, cannon ball cabbages, cherry tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, green onions, lettuce, radish and parsley. Cucumbers also do well in this type of garden, as long as they are watered generously and regularly and have a rich soil and plenty of sun.

Getting Ready

Planting or sowing under clothes is one way to deal with wet soil and cold conditions. Covering soil with polythene for a few months prior to planting or sowing will ensure that it is workable. Working a heavy clay soil when it is waterlogged will do more harm than good. Such soil has a short period of "workability" in mid-spring. Raised beds may be the only solution to heavy soils and drainage problems, particularly in northern areas where winters are wet. Don't be in a hurry to remove protection from frost-tender plants. Plants can be uncovered during the day, but keep the protective material at hand in case of frosty nights.

Frost-prone Areas 

In southern parts, wait until the end of the month or August before making a serious start in the vegetable garden. If you have a heavy clay soil, then you may have to delay sowing unless you've have the ground covered for at least part of the winter. Remember, you should always be guided by local weather conditions before deciding to sow seeds or plant out seedlings. A few radish seed sown in a  warm area will provide fresh salad greens, as will the might mizuna, which is remarkably frost-hardy and can be raised in pots or in the winter garden. It can be sown in masse in a single pot for producing tender young leaves for salads. A pot can be set inside on a windowsill or in a window box.

Frost-free Areas

Sowing seeds of hardy vegetables and annual flowers outside can begin n earnest this month. Sow lettuce, onions, peas, silver beet, spinach, broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower directly into the garden, if the soil is warm and free-draining. Seedlings of all of these vegetables can be planted out. Winter lettuce and endive can be planted out in sheltered areas. In cold gardens, they can be set out in pots in a sunny patch near a door for ready use. Be vigilant for snails and slugs, especially in warm northern areas, as they will devour young seedlings with relish. Quash is an ideal and relatively safe way to get rid of snails. 

13/07/2013 - Research for the month of June

Actual Temperature
9 degrees Celsius
Humidity : 80%
Rainfall : 1.2mm
Wind : Lighty Wind


Half the fun of gardening is attempting the impossible and succeeding. You may find that a sheltered corner of the garden provides just the right conditions for that special vegetable plant. Mircoclimates exist in every garden and in every part of the country, so it pays to not be too inflexible when it comes to deciding what will or will not grow in your area.

The following are frost tolerant : beetroot, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, coriander, garlic, kale, lettuce, mizuna, mustard, onions, parsley, rocket, spinach, and yam.

Getting Ready 

There isn't much to be done in the garden expect where conditions allow a little digging and turning of the soil. Building up soils with compost now will prepare them for crops to be planted in the coming months. 

Take care not to compost wet soil by walking on it. Place a plank of wood on the soil and work from that. Covering wet soils with black plastic can also help to dry them a little before sowing seed or planting out. Liquid fertiliser applied to the leaves of sulking plants will boost their vigour.   

The vegetable garden will also benefit from a good dressing of dolomite lime at this time of the year. Lime is great for leaf crops and produces fine broccoli, cabbages, rhubarb, and silver beet. Florence fennel, especially the delicious "Zefa Tardo" grows best when the temperatures are cool. Seedlings planted in the autumn will grow steadily through cold winters and ready for spring use. The occasional pilfered leaf also makes an aromatic addition to winter salads. Seedlings started now in a sheltered part of the garden or in a greenhouse will be ready for planting out in the spring. Plant out seedlings on warm days and only if the soil is reasonable friable.

Frost-prone Areas

It is often better at this time of the year to sow in trays and plant out later when the conditions are warmer. Seedlings are a better bet, as they are less liable to rot in wet, cold weather. Cabbage and cauliflower seedlings can be planted in areas where frosts are not severe. Garlic should be planted at least 10cm deep. Shallots can also be planted at the same time, however, if the soil is cold and wet it is better to wait until August before planting.

Frost-free Areas

In frost-free gardens, the first potatoes of the season can be set out. In areas where frosts are light, they will still need covering at night with frost cloth or fleece. Broad beans, strawberries, celery radish, lettuce, and silver beet can be planted if the soil is warm and well drained. Broad beans, celery, strawberries and potatoes will benefit from a fungicide spray. Plant garlic 5cm deep and shallots slightly proud of the soil level.

12/07/2013 - Research for the Month of May

Actual Temperature
10 degrees Celsius
Humidity : 80%
Rainfall : 0.00mm
Wind : Lighty Wind


Strawberries enjoy acid soil and cool weather. Now is a good time to prepare a strawberry plot by stuffing it with as much as rotted compost and animal manure as you can find. Strawberries like to be fed until they are bursting and they also like good drainage. A mulch of pine needles or oak leaves is said to improve the flavour of the berries and the mulch also serves to keep the fruit dry and free of soil. Untreated sawdust also makes good mulch. Now is the time to plant strawberry runners, especially in warm northern areas.

Getting Ready

Rhubarb is a very hard and frost resistant plant - it needs a period of winter cold to produce the best stalks. With sun, moisture, a little compost and a dash of general purpose fertiliser, rhubarb will flourish and provide you with with delicious stalks at a time of the year when little else is cropping in the garden. In cold areas, it pays to cover the leaves with frost cloth or a few fine branches for shelter. A note of caution - the leaves of rhubarb contain oxalic acid, which is poisonous to humans, and should not be eaten.

If the temperature are beginning to fall rapidly, this is a good time to dig the garden throughly and add a compost mulch or pea straw to the soil. 

Frost-prone Areas

Broad beans and spinach, such as the winter-hardy "Bloomingsdale", can be sown or planted, a can a wide variety of winter-hardy salad and general kitchen vegetables. Peas such as the "Petitb Provencal" types can also be sown now for an early winter crop. Kale and giant red mustard will flourish in the cold weather, as will the delicious salad green mizuna, miner's lettuce, pak choy and bok choy.

Frost-Free Areas

Brocoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, leeks, onions, potatoes, silverbeet, celery and winter lettuce can be sown or planted out in the open. Bok choy, as well as the mesclun salad seed mixes, grow in both the north and south of the country. This mix contains endive, corn salad, rocket, chicory and various coloured and green lettuces.

Autumn-sown broad beans need good drainage. Sow them 5cm deep directly where you want them to grow to get good roots established that will support a heavy late-winter and spring crop. Plants sown now will grow to 5 - 10cm and stay this size through the winter establishing strong side roots. Add fertiliser around the root in the spring.

Seeds of other vegetables such as cabbage, carrot, cauliflower, lettuce, onion and spinach can be sown into the garden. I prefer to use the seed trays to raise seedlings and then plant them out when they are reasonably established. 

11/07/2013 - Research for the Month of April

Actual Temperature
11 degrees Celsius
Humidity : 75%
Rainfall : 0.00mm
Wind :  Heavy Wind

Herb Garden

Now is the time to cut back and sort out the herb garden. Many herbs, such as sage, sorrel, lovage, winter savory and thyme, can be divided up, cut back and placed either in pots as gifts to friends or in new areas of the garden to become established before winter begins. Sow herb seeds such as sage and rosemary now for planting out in the spring. In cool areas use trays, but in warm, sheltered parts of the country sow directly into the soil and thin the seedlings later. You can dry healthy foliage by hanging bunches in paper bags in a cool, airy place and then storing the leaves in sealed jars for winter use.  

Disease Alert

Powdery Mildew is a problem in the autumn garden, especially if the crop is a heavy one, the weather is humid and the soil dry. It will affect vegetables such as pumpkin. The infected leaves become discoloured, distorted and covered with a whitish powder. Use a suitable fungicide spray at the first sign of the problem. Remove and carefully dispose of all infected parts.

Getting Ready

Applying mulch is still important in the autumn and winter. It helps to keep root zones moist when the garden is dry and keeps them sheltered and warm when the weather is cold.

Clean-up copper sprays are good for the autumn garden. They are relatively safe to use and help to control the fungal diseases that abound at the time of the year.

Allow a few beans, some rocket, coriander, dill and florence fennel to set seed. Save the seeds from the biggest and best of the crop for dying and planting out next season.

Frost-prone Areas

If you are enough to have a warm, free draining soil then a lot can still be sown. Broad beans, beetroot, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, onions, parsley, peas, silver beet and spinach will all sprout into growth as long as they are provided with plenty of moisture. Sow in containers and then prick out young seedlings before planting them out into the garden so that watering is easy and insert pests that might have designs upon tender young plants can be monitored.

Frost-free Areas

Sow broad beans, beetroot, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, onions, parsley, peas, silver beet and spinach. Harvest kumara as soon  as possible. A green manure crop such as mustard, blue lupin or oats can be sown now in ground that is to be left vacant through the winter. Dig this crop in at the end  of winter and it will loosen and improve soil and provide valuable humus. Dig the crop in while it is still soft. 

10/07/2013 - Research for the Month of March

Actual Temperature
9 degrees Celsius
Humidity : 80%
Rainfall : 0.00mm
Wind : Calm

Insect Alert

March is the beginning of autumn proper throughout most of the country and suddenly a rush colour and vegetable bounty fills the garden as it begins to wind down for winter. Unfortunately, with all of this abundance, also comes aphids, caterpillars, cutworms, earwigs, slug and snails, as well as weeds and other pests.

Keep weeds under control and prevent them from seeding. Cutting off the flower heads is one simple way to limit the spread of weed seed. Keeping the soil well hoed when the weather is hot and dry will also ensure that, when autumn rains comes, there will be fewer weeds.

Getting Ready

Garden beds that have been stripped of late-summer crops should be throughly forked over and general fertiliser applied at a rate of two good handfuls per square metre. Heavy soil will benefit greatly from the addition of at least two handfuls of lime per square metre. Apply lime at least 6 - 8 weeks before the winter garden is planted. mix it in well and keep the soil moist. Organic gardeners may prefer to use dolomite or ground shell.  

Feed, feed and feed again if you want the best from end-of-season crops. Feeding even when the soil temperature begin to fall will help ensure that those last marrows, tomatoes and melons develop to their full potential. 

Frost-prone Areas

Where the days are warm, moist and settled, sow seeds of broccoli, beetroot, broad beans, carrot, cauliflowers, leek, winter lettuce, parsnip, peas, radish, silver beet, spinach, spring onion and turnip in trays for planting out later. In areas where the weather is beginning to cool down, especially in the evenings, it is time to plant seedlings of winter lettuce, cabbage, spinach, leek, parsley and spring onion. 

Before the first frost, pick any tomatoes that are beginning to show colour. They was ripen full indoors, especially if they are placed on a sunny windowsill. Anything greener can be used for any decay or rotting.

Frost-free Areas

Pull onions when the tops have fallen over and dried. Do this sunny, breezy days and leave them in the garden for a day or two to dry out throughly. If you want to store onions for any length of time, the neck must be throughly dry. This will usually take at least a fortnight.

Early-variety, well sprouted potatoes can be set out but only in frost-free areas. In areas where light frosts are experienced, use frost cloth covers at night.

Now it time to harvest kumara, pumpkins and any other vegetables, especially if they are intended for storage. Pumpkins will last well into winter if they are picked before the first frosts with a good strong stalk attached.

09/07/2013 - Research For The Month of February

Actual Temperature
8 degrees Celsius
Humidity : 82%
Rainfall : 0.00mm
Wind : Lighty Wind

 Foliar Feeding

Liquid fertilizers applied once a fortnight in the growing season will help to boost growth, flowering and fruiting. When plants are stressed by weather changes, or lack nutrients, they can be fed quickly and efficiently through the stomata, or tiny pores under the leaves which absorb nutrients. Feed with liquid fertiliser in the evening or early morning. The roots of many vegetables are unable to process micro-nutrients in cold weather. Foliar feedings allows micro-nutrients, such as iron, to be absorbed by leaves, boosting growth.

Getting Ready

This is a month when autumn is beginning to be felt in the south of the country. In the far north, summer conditions continue but by the end of the month the nights are beginning to draw in. February is one of the driest months of the year and keeping crops watered can prove trying for even the most determined gardener. Ensure the plants get a deep soaking, and water in the cool of the evening or in the morning to prevent evaporation.  Ample, deep, even moisture is important when growing vegetables. Letting the ground dry out can cause serious damage to seedlings and germinating seed. 

As the season cools in some areas, the focus of the month also falls on sowing or planting cool season vegetables. Regular side dressings with a general-purpose or liquid fertiliser will boost plant growth and ensure a good crop. Keep the weeds down in the vegetable garden with regular hoeing. This aerates the soil and aids moisture retention. Any compost that hasn't been used can also mulched around the mulched around the roots of plants to help converse valuable moisture.

Frost-prone Areas

Onions should be pulled as they ripen, dried and stored. Swede and turnip can be sown or planted out. Bok choy, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, parsley, kale, and kohlrabi can be planted out or sown if conditions are very mild. Perpetual beet is ideal for sowing or planting in colder districts and will provide valuable greens throughout the winter.

Pick the last tomatoes as soon as they show colour and ripen inside, and make fortnightly sowings of salad crops such as cos lettuce, chicory, kale and leek.

Frost-free Areas

Both dwarf and climbing beans can still be planted with the expectation of a reasonable crop if plants with the expectation of a reasonable crop if plants are watered regularly and generously.

New Zealand spinach will rush into growth if seed is sown in a moist, rich soil. Now is also a good time to sow seeds of bok choy, beetroot, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, endive, parsley, kale, kohlrabi, leek, lettuce, peas, radish, silver beet and spinach.

A few tomato seedlings and late potatoes can be planted out in warm areas in the expectation of a last crop before autumn.

 

08/07/2013 - Research For The Month of January

Actual Temperature
13 degrees Celsius
Humidity : 85%
Rainfall : 0.00mm
Wind : Calm

Mulching

This a perfect time to make compost as more surplus vegetation is produced from the garden in January than perhaps at any other time of the year. The process of compost making can be sped up by chopping vegetation first before adding it to the heap. Use a spade to cut into pieces  or run a rotary mover over it.   Mix in leaves and small amount of grass clipping in layers, adding a little compost maker, blood and bone or a similar organic fertiliser to help speed up the process of decomposition. It is important to keep the heap moist at all times in hot, dry weather and turn it occasionally.

There is no better material for improving the condition of the soil and boosting the health and quality of vegetable and flower gardens. Soak the soil well before mulching with compost. 

Getting Ready

Replant salad crop regularly as they mature rapidly at this time of the year and set seed. Allow a few plants to set seed, ripen and dry to collect seeds for the next season's crop. 

Seeds of beans, beetroot, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrot, celery, cauliflowers, lettuce, chicory and fennel, parsnip, parsley, peas, radish, spinach and turnip can be sown directly into the garden where they are to grow or into trays for planting out later once they are growing strongly. 

Feed lettuce and other salad crops such as basil, capsicum and maturing chilli peppers with weekly doses of liquid fertilisers. Home-made or commercial fish fertiliser has a remarkable effect on the growth of many salad crops, especially lettuce. A general garden fertiliser which worked well into the soil, will also encourage crops to develop quickly before the colder weather begins and growth begins to slow.

Frost -prone Areas

In most areas beetroots, broccoli, brussels sprouts, carrots, cauliflower, leek, lettuce, swede and turnip can all be planted an will grow rapidly. Savoy cabbages are ideal for planting out now in colder areas.

Frost-free Areas

Continue to plant beans, cucumber, marrow and melons but only in the warmest parts of the country. water is critical for young plants and it makes good sense to water with a hand-held hose. This saves water and you can ensure no plants are missed, as can happen with sprinkler systems.

04/07/2013 - Research On How do the plants and recipes work?

Actual Temperature
14 degrees Celsius
Humidity : 85%
Rainfall : 0.00mm
Wind : Calm

The plants and recipes fall into four categories:-

• Those that can be used to mask the scent of plants that  are targeted by pests
• Those that will actively repel pests
• those that will kill pests
• those that will kill or control fungi and bacteria.

Many plants and recipes fall into more than one category while a few fall into all four, depending on how they are used. Some of the plants described are declared noxious weeds in some parts of the country so, if in any doubt, err on the side of caution and don't grow them - they can always be collected from the wild. 

Masking - many herbs have strong scents that stop pests from attacking them. When they are inter-planted with vegetables and other vulnerable plants these strong scents confuse pests by masking the scents of the plants the pests want to eat. Just planting lots of different vegetables all jumbled up together instead of in near rows can sometimes confuse pest sufficiently so that they do not do much damage.  

Repelling - Often it is not necessary or even desirable to kill  a pest - just to repel it from the area where it can cause damage may be sufficient. Some are effective just grown in the garden, while others can be picked and used fresh or dried. Oil extracted from some can be rubbed on the skin or through pests' costs to repel pests or a spray can be made to keep pests from a certain plant or place. 

Biomass and the Pyramid of Nutrition

The total weight or mass of living material in any given volume of soil or water is termed its biomass. The biomass of a solution of chemical fertiliser is nil and the biomass of soils continually treated with chemical fertilisers and pesticides may also be very low, whereas the biomass of organic fertilisers and soils under a regime of organic husbandry is extremely high.

The total biomass of the earth, including every form of life from bacteria to elephants, is contained in or on what is often termed the "pyramid of nutrition". In terms of biomass , the base of that pyramid should (when nature is working at optimum level) be in earth itself. When the biomass of the soil from the surface downwards greatly exceeds the biomass above the surface, then the pyramid of nutrition might seen as stable. The only possible means by which the earth's pyramid of nutrition can be maintained the right way up (in stable equilibrium) is by the ecologically sound approach of biological agriculture which, when applied to the mini-environment of the backyard, is called "organic gardening".

One of the essential differences between humans and other animals is that any animal confronted with a set of rapidly changing environmental conditions will perish and become extinct if it is not able to adapt quickly enough, while humans, when confronted with environmental conditions that may not be compatible with the needs, can immediately set about re-orgnising the environment to suit their requirements.