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Today I had a prunning class with Curator Shirley Stuart on Crorokia virgata and flax. She was showing and guiding us on how to pruned and usually Corokia pruning is done one's or two years.
Fax prunning and contemporary plants will depend on the variety of plant that is to be pruned. However, in regard to most strappy leaf plants like flax they can be pruned and the best time to prune them is at a time of year when they are actively growing. Avoid pruning in cool periods like winter. Pruning is best done in spring. Flax grow from a number of clumping roots which expand over time. Shirley emphasis that the flax leaves have become very ragged as they can over time. It is best to prune flax leaves hard to the crown of the plant. This will mean that no leaves are left on the plant, however if the plant receives good care it will regenerate and new leaves will develop over a number of months.
Fax prunning and contemporary plants will depend on the variety of plant that is to be pruned. However, in regard to most strappy leaf plants like flax they can be pruned and the best time to prune them is at a time of year when they are actively growing. Avoid pruning in cool periods like winter. Pruning is best done in spring. Flax grow from a number of clumping roots which expand over time. Shirley emphasis that the flax leaves have become very ragged as they can over time. It is best to prune flax leaves hard to the crown of the plant. This will mean that no leaves are left on the plant, however if the plant receives good care it will regenerate and new leaves will develop over a number of months.
While pruning is done to reduce the overall size of a plant, it should be remembered that the growth of shoots near the pruning cut are invigorated. Strong shoots should be moderately pruned and weak shoots should be severely pruned. Severely pruning strong shoots will cause vigorous growth.
Correct pruning is the selective removal of branches while maintaining the natural shape of the plant. It is not the same as shearing in which the ends of most, if not all, branches are removed. A good pruning job should not be conspicuous. Before starting consider the natural form of the plant; choose branches that do not fit the natural form for removal. Each plant species has an individuality that distinguishes it from other plants.
Older shrubs that have out grown their location may need more severe pruning to reduce plant size. If they are healthy and receive adequate sunlight they should respond to renewal pruning. Pruning all the branches at or near the ground is the simplest procedure. An excessive number of new upright shoots may develop from the base by mid-summer. After these shoots have reached their full length, some of the shoots should be removed and some should be headed back. Prune to outward growing buds so the inner portion of the plant will not become overly dense.
An alternative is to selectively remove up to 50 percent of the branches at the base. This would include the removal of older, unproductive wood, inward growing branches, and any other growth that detracts from the natural form of the plant. Any extremely vigorous, unbranched suckers also would be removed. Examine the remaining branches and head back those that detract from the intended size or appearance. By mid-summer, new shoots should have developed. Some of the new basal shoots should be removed. A less dramatic method is to annually remove one-fourth to one-third of the oldest branches for several years until all of the old branches are remove. This method will also require the removal of excessive basal shoots in mid-summer.
Prunning class adjourned at 12.00 am.
An alternative is to selectively remove up to 50 percent of the branches at the base. This would include the removal of older, unproductive wood, inward growing branches, and any other growth that detracts from the natural form of the plant. Any extremely vigorous, unbranched suckers also would be removed. Examine the remaining branches and head back those that detract from the intended size or appearance. By mid-summer, new shoots should have developed. Some of the new basal shoots should be removed. A less dramatic method is to annually remove one-fourth to one-third of the oldest branches for several years until all of the old branches are remove. This method will also require the removal of excessive basal shoots in mid-summer.
Prunning class adjourned at 12.00 am.
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