Tuesday 10 September 2013

10/09/2013 Plant Propagation Unit 20557 & Turf Unit 24646


Actual Temperature
16 degrees Celsius
Humidity : 72%
Rainfall : 0.00mm
Wind : Moderate Wind


My class was conducted by Lisa Short on Plant Propagation Unit in the morning. We work out in nursery and as well as on the blogs.  In the morning section monitored on the seedlings such as Sophora tetraptera seedlings are still quite slow but there are more growth. Juniper media blaauw plant was healthy but growth is still slow. Digital summer king seedlings  showing good growth plant grow more healthier. Sweet pea - cupid drawrf (Lathyrus cupid) seedlings as good growth and looks healthy and more leaves shoots. Dianthus confetti seedlings are doing good and healthy. Veronica topiaria was healthy and no traces of wilting. Veronica "Emerald Green" hardwood cutting are healthier and no wilt are traces of pest and diseases. Thymus vulgaris cutting was still healthy and has no sign of wilting. Lupin gallery mix was healthy has more healthier leaves and good growth. All plants are free from any pest and diseases. Clianthus puniceus was doing good and more healthy. Lemon Grass (Cymbopogon ciratus) seed still is no trace of growing.


Today I sowed the seed of Sugar snap dwarf (Pisum sativum) around 80 pieces for germination. Belonging to the Pisum genus (Pisum sativum var. macrocarpon 'Sugar Snap Dwarf'), Sugar Snap Dwarf is a variety of Snap pea. This variety is an vegetable that typically grows as an annual, which is defined as a plant that matures and completes its lifecycle over the course of a single year. Sugar Snap Dwarf normally grows to a max height of approximately 1.55 metres. Due to how easy it is to grow in a variety of conditions, Sugar Snap Dwarf Snap pea is great for beginner gardeners and those that like low maintenance gardens.

I pricked out and potted on  Digital summer king into bigger tubes for 10 seedlings which looks more healthier and fast growth. Later I planted hardwood cutting herbs Origanum vulgare  around 20 cuttings.  It is a perennial herbs.








Digital summer king














Origanum vulgare























In the afternoon I had Turf Unit with Alan. We have some turf delivered from Readylawn dealer and start to lawn behind O Block behind Polytechnic.

Lay the turf within a couple of hours of delivery and for best results your new instant turf should be installed as soon as it is delivered.

Don’t let the slabs / rolls of turf dry out.
On hot days the unlaid stack of turf should be in the shade and sprinkled with water – do not soak, just a light misty spray.
Dampen down the area where you are going to lay the turf.
Do not lay turf onto dry soil, especially in the warmer months. It is ideal to dampen down the area about 4-12 hours before you lay the turf. Usually we don't want it muddy when go to lay the turf as it makes a messy uneven job and harder work.
Start laying.
We should start laying turf away from your stack of turf if possible, to avoid walking continually over the newly laid turf.
Use a brickwork pattern.
Choose your straightest and longest edge; start with rolling your lawn out without pulling or stretching the turf, pushing the edges together, staggering the joins in a brickwork pattern. You may need to peg grass on sloping areas to prevent movement.
Avoid gaps as this provides a perfect environment for weeds to grow.
Avoid overlapping the turf as the roots will dry out and the turf will die.
Avoid leaving narrow strips

Your turf will naturally die back on the edge of the roots after being harvested. Strips of turf at the outer edges of the area may struggle to retain moisture, especially if not top-dressed.
Laying on hot days.
On hot days lay a section of turf and lightly water, then lay the next section. Repeat until all the turf is laid. On cool days all turf can be laid at once.
Trim the turf with a bread knife or shovel.
When level the turf trimming is required just use a shovel or bread knife to cut around edges.
Soak the Turf.
The newly laid turf needs to be watered immediately.
Squash the turf down beneath your feet, or roll the turf, to remove any air pockets.
Keep the roots of turf damp for up to 3 to 4 weeks. Currently you may need 4-6 weeks.
Watering for the first two weeks is critical.
In late spring and summer, the turf may need to be watered from above the ground twice a day to be kept damp.
Mowing the turf.
After the lawn has been down a couple of weeks it can be mown, the first mowing is usually done a little higher than normal. 
Settling in of the turf.
Turf generally takes about 6 months before it settles in, after you have mowed it a few times. Consider fertilising the turf about 2-3 months after laying to give it that extra boost.
















































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